Tobacco Rose by Papillon Perfumery

Dirty and rebellious.

We’ve been waiting for a fragrance that would really change our opinion of the use of rose in perfume, and Tobacco Rose by Papillon Perfumery has proved itself to be the one. Modern perfumes tend to only feature a prominent rose note in compositions that appeal to the more mature wearer, and as such the rose is normally tame, generic and uninspiring. However, Papillon Perfumery has turned this stereotype on its head, and created a bold and unashamedly dirty rose-heavy fragrance.

Bulgarian rose and French rose centifolia run through the core of this fragrance, but are at their most prominent and vibrant in the opening. Dark and dusky, like roses after the rain, their impression changes depending on the type of skin on which the fragrance is worn. We found the top notes to be creamy on one type and more powdery on another, but both impressions were equally as mesmerising, and deeply original. The intense rose remains throughout the progression of the perfume, evolving as each new note appears.

In the heart, oakmoss adds a delicate earthy quality, transforming the initial richness of the top notes. Enhancing the originality of the rose, the oakmoss adds a dirty edge, resulting in a more masculine impression. The heart also contributes hints of leather, and evokes images of a country lane after the rain – we get pleasing notes of damp wood, grass, and ‘rain on concrete’. Beeswax and hay complete the composition, giving way to a subtler rose, with further hints of grass and earthiness. The lasting impression is reminiscent of the English outdoors – woody, wet, floral and ultimately, beautiful.

Tobacco Rose is a fragrance that’s ambiguous throughout – classic, yet modern; feminine, yet masculine. Sensual florals mingle with the deep earthiness of oakmoss and hay to create an overall boyish rose impression. Ambergris enhances this unique contrast, adding both sweetness and earthiness, whilst enhancing the floral element of this scent.

A delightful rebellion lies at the heart of this fragrance. Its deceptively rich and floral opening leads the wearer to expect a pleasantly safe feminine scent that remains classic throughout. Instead, Tobacco Rose becomes a perfume of sensuality and ambiguity that takes inspiration from ‘an overblown rose at the point of decay’, a rose which breaks all the rules.